Notes from Dr. Borkosky

Though crown settings are commonly used today to set diamonds in ladies engagement rings, this is somewhat risky, given the ease with which prongs can wear down or be accidentally pried open. Use a similar system to lay out patterns for the pyramid and sloping hexagon shown in figure 12.3. © The particular action will depend on access to the setting, the number of prongs, the size of the setting, and the tools at hand. This bearing can also be cut with a Hart bur in the flexible shaft machine, in which case a graver might be used only to even up the walls of the groove.

Connect these marks with the center point that was used before and you will have laid out the exact pattern for the cone drawn in profile. Variations on prong constructions are as numerous as the shapes in which stones are cut. Bi-monthly newsletters highlighting great articles, ganoksin member featured artists, popular community conversations and more. An example that will be used here is a shell cameo, and other uses include enamels, coins, found objects, etc. To layout a cone, first draw the intended shape in profile, or side view. Bead setting is also called pavé setting. We might think of a prong setting as an open-backed bezel from which segments have been removed at equal spacing around the rim. In the case of rectilinear stones, use dividers to step off the various planes of the stone’s perimeter, adding a little bit to allow for thickness, then use pliers to make sharp corners. The upper edge is sanded smooth and divided with a compass or template into the chosen number of prongs, typically 4, 6 or 8. This will stretch the metal outward, forcing it into a pyramid shape. Affiliate Disclosure This is the situation shown here. This frame is then soldered. Of course, you could fabricate your own out of wire by soldering, filing and notch cutting; but, these pre-made findings can save you a lot of time when you are using calibrated stone sizes in your work.

This dimension will vary considerably depending on the height of the stone; the taller the stone, the taller the bezel must be to properly secure it. The thickness of the metal sheet must be determined for each case, and will depend on the size of the stone, the type of metal being used, and the nature of the jewelry item. 0000002540 00000 n By Prof. Dr. Erhard Brepohl – © Excerpts from the book: All rights reserved internationally. BEZEL SETTING. The primary purpose of the bearing in this case is to level the stone and hold it in position as the stone is set. Continue going around the stone until the bezel is peeled back enough to allow the stone to be shaken out. The solder chips are applied from the bottom and drawn up into the joint, the point being to avoid a build up of solder along the bearing. It is often easiest if the goldsmith has an assistant to strike the hammer blows, allowing the setter to hold the work and locate the tool. Check to be certain the stone is level and seated as far into the mounting as it can go, then proceed to press the points in between those just bent over (NE, SW, NW, SE). In the case of metal (as opposed to paper, for instance) allowance should be made for the thickness of the sheet.

premium online videos. Remove the shell and cut away metal down to this line, using burs, shears and files. While this can be calculated, on the scale of stone settings it is usually sufficient to simply add a small amount to the measurements made. Every stone I set is slightly different so get to know your stone and take your time before you start hammering it into place.

Make an oval of wire, solder it closed, and planish it out to make a flat rim. The advantage of prongs is that they allow more of the stone to show; in this way a prong setting resemble the way you might hold a coin by its edges to show it to a friend. As mentioned above for frames, the bearing for a prong setting can either be added on or cut from the material itself.

Perhaps the most universally useful method is to fabricate the frame from sheet metal, following patterns like those shown in figure 12.3. It’s worth it to watch the entire video. Gem Setting Techniques. The annealed blank is set into position, the corresponding die is slid into it, and the punch struck with a hammer (figure 12.2c). 7 WayS to Set StoneS: Bezel Setting and other Stone Setting techniqueS SkillS n forming n soldering n planishing Bezels from Miniature Stakes Hammer form a setting for an unusual stone by William Fretz w hen a stone is an unusual shape, standard bezel mandrels cannot be used for fabrication. 0000002428 00000 n

0000005005 00000 n This is then set on an anvil or similar steel form and planished at one end, making sure to strike each of the four surfaces equally. 0000009902 00000 n

At the very least gem setting instructions teach you how to prepare gem seating so that your setter can deliver top quality setting. If you can mentally “fill in” the scooped out openings in figure 12.12a, you will see how much it resembles the bezel shown at figure 12.4a. 0000001374 00000 n Our 20 year old orchid community is home to over 40,000 discussion threads! 0000003747 00000 n

In order to avoid a pucker of metal at any one point, it is important to distribute the compression of the bezel around the stone. This method will not work for thick bezels; instead, use a saw to cut into through the bezel at one or perhaps two places. Repeat the process with the pencil end of the compass at the lower end of the cone – these two lines provide the outer dimensions of the blank that will be needed. The Tiny holes are drilled into metal and stones are then placed directly into those holes. Move to a point equidistant between these two points and press it, then go directly opposite that. Corners are cut from this, typically with a file, and are beveled so that they make a tidy joint when brought together. The prong lifts quite easily. Orchid Community Figure 12.7 shows the way a setter can use his or her little finger to press down on the stone while simultaneously holding onto the punch. It is possible to repair these cuts by soldering a thin piece of metal into the cuts, but in some cases it might prove easier to make a new bezel from scratch. 0000007253 00000 n When cutting a bearing, work can proceed with gravers, burs or a combination of both. Start with a blank that is equivalent to the center dimension of the intended form. The excess sheet is cut off with a saw and the edges are filed (figure 12.1b). After drawing a guideline around the cone about one-third of the way up from the bottom, a saw or file is used to cut away material from between the prongs. These tools are usually made of unhardened steel, though brass or bronze can also be used. Visit our The tips of each prong are hardened and burnished with a burnisher or a beading tool.

If the bearing has not yet been cut, it is made now, using a bur, a graver, a file, or some combination of all three. When the stone is securely set – it feels stable and makes no sound when shaken – polish and harden the bezel by rubbing it with a burnisher. Though tempting, glue should not be used for this because it makes it impossible to know when the bezel has been properly secured. The surfaces are generally polished, but the fine tooth left by sandpaper has the advantage of gripping onto the metal slightly. When the metal is tightly pressed against the stone with a punch, the metal standing above the setting is taken away (do not use sandpaper!) It is further held by rivets, engraved stitches, adhesive or tin solder. A technique in which small stones are held in place with a metal sliver that is beaded over ....... is a technique to set round gemstones in bezels with a punch. ... A generic term for a technique of setting a stone into a metal surface using an engraving tool called a setting bur. Extend the lines of each side to locate the center point of a circle, seen in figure 12.3b.

In cases where a stone is very delicate or a bezel wall very thick, it is often easier to set a bezel using a hammer and punch. The dimensions and shapes are first laid out on stiff paper to insure the correct fit. When fabricating a bearing, an inner unit (cone, pyramid or tube) is made in the same way as the outer one, though typically it is slightly thicker. The hardest part seems to be in finding a starting point – it’s possible to feel your way around the stone several times before the tip of the tool finds a point of entrance. All setting work is dependent on the diameter of the stone, with the depth of the stone being a factor as well. And keep in mind that each of these styles could be altered in proportion or metal to create several settings!

Ease into this place and work from there around the bezel, always avoiding force and a levering motion. It is the oldest and largest jewelry making community on the web. Though it appears there is an extra step, these forms are even easier to make than the cone. Always work over a table, leather bag or sweeps drawer to catch the stone in case it is dropped. When cutting a bearing into a conical setting the outward leaning sides mean that very little material needs to be removed. The prongs are next checked to be certain they are the proper height, and if necessary they are cut down and shaped with files. One of the first decisions about incorporating a stone is to determine whether it is to be the focal point of a design or a component in service to some other more dominant aspect. Of course it must be noted that the bearing cannot be cut too deeply for fear of breaking through the wall. An overview of how to bead set stones in metal. In larger settings, the cone is inverted and a knife-edged file is used to remove material in a position staggered from the location of the prongs as shown in 12.12b. In this case the operation is the same, but the machine is passed across the surface of the bezel, changing angles as the work proceeds to cinch the bezel down onto the stone. 12.11, but these should be taken as only a glimpse of the many varieties that can be made. However, this “white wine with poultry, red wine with meat” approach has more to do with convention than practicality or ne-cessity. Since virtually all light that enters any stone does so from the top, any cut of stone can be set in any kind of setting that will hold it …   |  

To determine the length of the blank, calculate the circumference of the top of the intended cone by multiplying its radius times p (3.1416). In the end, this is the element that will hold the stone from the front. Set a compass point at this junction and strike an arc with the other point at the top of the cone. Use a sharp, pointed knife tip as a wedge, easing it in between the bezel wall and the stone.   |   It is possible to cut the bearing groove at this stage, though some goldsmiths prefer to wait until after the prongs have been cut out. When setting a rectilinear stone, press the corners in first.

In both cases there must be sufficient metal above the stone to press over it. Accessibility Statement. Copyright ©, Euro Tool Stand & 40 Diamond Grinding Bur Set, Grobet Swiss Files Halfround 6 INCH Cut 2, 25 Millimeter Face, 3 Ounces | HAM-150.00, Maillefer Jewelry Swiss Harden Tool Steel, Grobet Gunsmith & Knife Edge Swiss Pattern, GRS Tools 002-115 Glensteel Square Gravers, Burnisher, Straight, 1-1/2 Inch | BRN-100.15, Homemade Soldering Station Venting System. The stone sits on the base plate and is held by the perpendicular wall that surrounds the stone. If a number of similar mountings are to be made, it’s a good idea to cut a copper or brass stencil of the form; this is more reliable and can be easily traced. There are many different ways of fabricating bezels and

Figure 12.2 shows three different ways to make a conical setting; a fourth is presented in figure 12.3. For unusual shapes like the one in figure 12.1c it might be worth the time to saw out a silhouette (or footprint) of the stone from brass sheet, then use this as a form against which the bezel can be adjusted. This means you can make the jewelry piece from start to completion on your own bench.

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